Gangrim/ Kuenzangcholing Lhakhang

Description

Gangrim Lhakhang or Kuenzangcholing Lhakhang is located on a hilltop in Gangringmo village under Sai-dzong Thangdokha chiwog of Gakiling gewog in Haa Dzongkhag.

There are different routes to reach the temple. Wangchuk (2022) mentions about the following routes that leads to the temple;

(a)  Haa Jyenkhana Route – One has to take the route from Haa Jyenkhana and Sombaykha road junction towards the Dorikha village, cross the Tergola Pass and descend to Sombaykha and Dorithasa road junction. Thereafter, one has to follow a foot track (old route) towards Pula, a small hilltop to reach the Gangrim Lhakhang. On an average, the distance by vehicle is about an hour and a half  to reach Sombaykha and Dorithasa road junction, and from there, it takes about seven hours en route to Jyenkhana village, Dorikha village, Tergola pass and Pula hilltop on foot.

(b) Haa Thangdokha Route – One has to take the route from Haa Jyenkhana and Sombaykha road junction towards Dorikha village, cross the Tergola Pass and descend to Somabykha and Dorithasa road junction. From Dorithasa village, one has to travel to the Gakiling Dungkhag Office, then to Putsina & Ngatsena road junction,  cross the Putsini bridge and travel to Ngatsena village and then toThandokha village, and from there travel on foot to the Gangrim Lhakhang. On an average, one has to drive for four hours to reach Thangdokha village, and from there, walk for about an hour to reach the temple.

(c) Haa Jyenkhana Saidzong Route – One has to take the route from Haa Jyenkhana and Sombaykha road junction, and travel to Dorikha village road junction, cross the Selela pass and travel towards the Phuntena village, and then to Norgang Thasa and finally to Saidzong village. From Saidzong, it is a long walk to the Gangrim Lhakhang. On an average, one has to drive for an hour to the road junction below Dorikha village, and from there it will take about 13 hours on foot to reach the temple.

(d) Samtse & Dorokha Dungkhag Route – One has to take the route from the Samtse Town to Dorokha Dungkhag,  travel towards the Denchukha Gewog and then to Thangdokha village. From there, one has to travel on foot  to the Gangrim Lhakhang. On an average, one has to drive for about 3 hours to reach Denchukha Gewog and then walk for about 5 hours to reach the temple.

History

Based on a brief record shared by Wangchuk (2022), the temple was built in 1930 by Lam Kunga Rinchen as per the prophecies of the 8th century Nyingma Master, Padmasambhava, and the 17th century Drukpa Kagyu master, Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyel. Lam Kunga Rinchen was from Norbugang village under Samar gewog in Haa Dzongkhag.

The temple was later looked after by his nephew, Ugyen Tshering (1921-??), who is said to be a former Dorji Lopen[1], and Namgay (1942-2006), a former Chamberlain or Ma Zim[2]. Dorji Lopen Ugyen Tshering was from Tagchhu village under Uesu gewog, Haa Dzongkhag. Ma Zim Namgay was from Norbugang village under Samar gewog, Haa Dzongkhag. Currently, the temple is under the care of the family of Lieutenant Colonel, Kuenzang H. Wangchuk of Royal Bhutan Army.

In the olden days, cattle herders from Samar gewog used to migrate to the nearby areas of Gangringmo, and the herders used to make their tents and stay near the temple. While this was a common practice in the past, presently, this practice has somewhat declined.

Wangchuk (2022) mentions that, since the Lhakhang is located in a remote area and the road connectivity is yet to reach the place, the structure looks old. However, the plans are always there to renovate it to the past glory. Furthermore, being the first religious structure in and around Gangrim and Thandokha chiwog, the Lhakhang contributed to the spread of religion and maintained the ancient traditions.

Architectural Structure

The temple is a two-storied structure made from stones, woods, clay, and CGI roofing. The structure has a cupola with a sertog[3] on the top. The outer walls of the temple are withered with minimal traces of whitewashing on them.

The ground floor is used to host guests and for the preparation of sacrificial cakes during rituals. The first floor contains the main altar and all the important relics are housed on this floor.

Inside the main altar, the main statue is Chagtong Chentong – Avalokitesvara with a thousand arms and a thousand eyes in the central, on the right side, there is a statue of Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyel, and on the left is a statue of Sangay Mermayzed – Buddha Dipankara. On the left side of Sangay Mermayzed, there are statues of Guru Padma Jungney, Chana Dorje – Vajrapani, Jestun Dolma – Tara, Jampelyang – Manjushri, and Namgyalma – Vijaya, the goddess of victory with three faces and eight arms.

The inner walls of the first floor contain paintings of Zamling Gyendrug Chognyi[4], Dorje Chang – Vajradhara, Tshepamey – Amitayus, and Jampelyang – Manjushri.

There is a tall pine tree near the temple and a few meters away from the temple, there is a small stupa.

Social and Cultural Activities

On the 15th day of the first lunar month, nyungney[5] is organised.

On the 10th day of the third lunar month which coincides with Zhabdrung Kuchoe – Death Anniversary of Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyel, a commemorative service is held.

On the 15th day of the fourth lunar month which coincides with the Lord Buddha’s Parinirvana, there is a commemorative service.

On the 10th day of the fifth lunar month which coincides with the Birth Anniversary of Guru Rinpoche, Trelda Tshechu[6] is organised.

On the 4th day of the sixth lunar month which coincides with the First Sermon of the Lord Buddha, a commemorative service is held.

On the 22nd day of the ninth month which coincides with the Descending Day of the Lord Buddha, a commemorative service is conducted.

The commemorative services are sponsored by the community of Thandokha village, the people of the Langpa Norbugang Chiwog under Samar Gewog and Lhakhang owner.  Sometimes Ngatesana community under Phootsena Ngatse chiwog, Gakiling gewog also contribute to the commemorative services.

Dorji, the caretaker of the temple, regularly offers Labsang – offerings of incense to supplicate local deities, and Soelkha – libation to the Dharma protectors. The caretaker and his family are of the same household as the family of Lieutenant Colonel, Kuenzang H. Wangchuk and they have been taking care of the temple for 12 years.

 

Informant

Kuenzang H. Wangchuk, Lieutenant Colonel, Royal Bhutan Army, Lungtenphu, Thimphu

Ugyen Dorji, Tshogpa, Sai-dzong Thangdokha chiwog, Gakiling gewog, Haa Dzongkhag

Researcher

Singye Wangchuk, Associate Lecturer, College of Language and Culture Studies, Trongsa

References

Journal, D. (n.d.). Zhung Dratshang: The Central Monk Body of Bhutan | The Druk Journal. Retrieved from http://drukjournal.bt/zhung-dratshang-the-central-monk-body-of-bhutan/

Mandala Collections. (n.d.). Mandala.library.virginia.edu. Retrieved from https://texts.mandala.library.virginia.edu/text/trelda-tsechu-celebration-padmasambhavas-birth#shanti-texts-39351

Sertok: The Golden Pinnacle of Architecture. (n.d.). Texts.mandala.library.virginia.edu. Retrieved from https://texts.mandala.library.virginia.edu/book_pubreader/40866

[1] The Dorji Lopen is chief of the five Lopens and normally succeeds to the Vajra Throne of His Holiness the Je Khenpo. For more information, please visit http://drukjournal.bt/zhung-dratshang-the-central-monk-body-of-bhutan/

[2] Zimpon means Chamberlain. The Chamberlain is equivalent to a deputy minister in the Monastic Body or Dratshang Lhentshog. Ma Zim or Machen Zimpon is the chamberlain for Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal’s embalmed body in Punakha Dzong.

[3] It is a golden badge or button normally installed on the top of the roof. https://texts.mandala.library.virginia.edu/book_pubreader/40866

[4] Six Ornaments and the Two Supreme Ones, the Six Ornaments are Nagarjuna, Aryadeva, Asanga, Dignaga, Vasubandhu and Dharmakirti, and the Two Supreme Ones are Shakyaprabha and Gunaprabha

[5] A religious practice of austerity and fasting based on the worship of Avalokiteśvara. https://culture.bt/textual-cp/nyungne-fasting-practice/

[6] It takes place on the 10th day of Monkey month, however, depending on the calendar used, the Monkey month can vary. Trelda according to the most common Bhutanese and Tibetan calendars, is the fifth lunar month although some calendar systems consider the 3rd, 4th or 6th Bhutanese lunar months as the Monkey month. https://texts.mandala.library.virginia.edu/text/trelda-tsechu-celebration-padmasambhavas-birth#shanti-texts-39351

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